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Photos by Rick Goddard
When was the last time you planned a weekend camping trip to northern Baja and found yourself surrounded by palms, sitting in a natural mineralized hot tub under the stars? If all this sounds inviting, than read on.
The palm canyon area of the Sierra De Juarez excarpment is situated in a series of wildly beautiful eroded canyons just west of Laguna Salada. There are five large canyons in the region, all of which possess surface water: Cañon's Tajo, El Cariso, Guadalupe, La Mora and El Malomar. One of the most spectacular, Cañon Guadalupe, is a desert oasis featuring natural tubs full of hot mineral water rich in lithium, originating deep within the strata.
Made famous to western travelers by mystery writer and early Baja pioneer, Erle Stanley Gardner, this canyon has a 10,000 year long history of human habitation. Cañon Guadalupe offers comfortable camping in an enchanted setting of magnificent palms, year-round streams and exotic sunrises silhouetting the mountains above.
The oasis, made up of three campgrounds designated Campo I, II and III, is owned by the Loya Espanoza family. It is situated a the entrance to the mouth of the canyon. Rob Williams, originally from southern California, married Isabelle, daughter of Arturo and Angel Loya Expanoza. Rob operated Campo I while Isabelle's two brothers operate Campos II and III. These camps are a popular weekend getaway for Baja Norte residents. Unfortunately, signs of man do exist. Grafitti can be seen on some of the boulders below the waterfalls. rob follows up by disguising these not-so-intelligent modern day petroglyphs with natural, colored paints combined with sand, but volunteer help is encouraged to help protect these pristine surroundings.
Once at Campo One, ask for Rob Williams or Arturo to show you the available campsites. It's best to call ahead for reservations to be sure you'll get the campsite of your choice. Fees are $10 per night per car. Facilities included hot water showers, access to flush toilets, a restaurant and a small store. There are a total of eighteen hot tub campsites, each with their own private and special ambience. Each hot tub is beautifully carved from rocks indigenous to the area.
Rob showed us to our campsite, El Sol, and it proved to be one of the more private and picturesque. Perched on the ridge overlooking the mouth of the canyon, we enjoyed breathtaking views of the valley floor to the east and the blue palms and peaks of Picacho to the west. During our November trip, typical of winter weather, the nighttime temperature dipped sharply as soon as the sun sets. This proved only a "poco problema" as we all slipped into the soothing hot tub with our cocktails.
Our campground featured a clean circular palapa which provided shelter for all our camping gear and a large brick fireplace which provided us a place to roast our feast.
As soon as the first golden rays of morning illuminated the peaks, we laced up our hiking boots (only after our early morning spa, of course!), packed a canteen and a few bananas and headed up the canyon in search of the swimming pools, waterfalls and the ancient petroglyphs.
We entered the steep wash north of the campground strewn with alluvial debris and huge rocks. For those seeking to stretch out with some excellent bouldering, this is the place. If you're interested in a little climbing, the surrounding ridges 2,000 feet above offer vistas well worth the class three climbs.
Two miles upstream is the Pool of Virgin. Surrounded on three sides by white granite cliffs and cottonwoods, willows, ferns and mosses, and fed by a slender waterfall, it seems out of place. Earthen hues of color on the surrounding rock contrast with the emerald pools which are often inhabited by tree frogs and water striders.
In the past, Paipais and Cucapas Indian tribes used the canyon as a transition route for their seasonal pilgrimages to collect pine nuts up on the Sierra Juarez desert plateau. Petroglyphs, pictographs, chipping waste, metates and pottery shards can be found in the palm groves and watered sites in the canyon.
Dozens of good quality cave paintings dating back 10,000 years are in the area. Large outcroppings east of the canyon's entrance have many fine examples. Ask Rob to take you on a tour to visit these sites. His informative trip lasts about two hours. The weathered formations housing the paintings will leave you awestruck. The wind-eroded rocks look like a honeycomb apartment complex of stone. If you close your eyes, you can almost feel the presence of the seasonal Indians that once lived here.
All in all, we rate this great getaway high on the list of quick over the border trips. The palm canyon region offers rewarding adventure and climbing experience. With unmatched natural rejubenation in the form of a private hot tub waiting for your return, it's a must do.
- Steinbeck -
| To get to Cañon Guadalupe from Tecate, take Mexico Route 2 east toward Mexicali, passing through the small towns of Valle Las Palmas, La Jollita, El Condor and La Rumerosa before plunging down 15 miles of downgrade averaging 5% to the valley floor and Laguna Salada. The hot spring oasis is located 2 1/2 hours south of the border, 60 miles south of Mexicali. From route 2, at KM 28, you'll see the road south to the palm canyon area marked "Cañon Guadalupe". Set your odometer at the turnoff and if you brought a compass, pull it out. It's a rough road littered with abandoned vehicles, but offers a breathtaking view of the mountains.
Proceed southeast to mile 14.7 where you'll reach Rancho La Ponderosa. At mile 20.7 you'll see a shack and a water tank and at mile 21.4 a road leading west toward the mouth of Canon Tajo. Looking west, El Trono Blanco, Baja's supreme technical climbing challenge, is in plaing view. This large dome (almost eight miles away) lies at the head of Canon Tajo at the confluence of its northwest and south forks. Continue southeast to mile 26.8 and turn southwest between two large irrigated fields. The skyline ahead will be dominated by Picacho Rasco, 4,500 feet high with a sharp spire, the Virgin of Guadalupe, named for a likeness to the Madonna. You'll reach the camp at mile 34.6. Cañon Guadalupe, although not as large as Cañon Tajo, has several advantages: a decent road into the mouth of the canyon and a campground with friendly caretakers and cold beer! When planning your trip, its best to call ahead for reservations. In the U.S. call (949) 673-2670. |