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Surfing
Safety
Don't
forget
Mexican auto insurance: Get it in the U.S. at an AAA office,
or at one of the insurance stores off I-5 in San Ysidro.
Money:
US dollars are accepted everywhere.
Food
and water: At least until you're back on the highway,
you'll want to quickly quell post-surf hunger
Waves
& Currents Waves are caused by wind blowing over the
surface of the ocean. The longer, stronger and further it
blows, the bigger the waves will be.
There are three kinds of waves
Shore
Dump - Where waves break with force and usually occur
where sandbanks are shallow, especially at low tide (also
high tide at fistral). It can be dangerous to surf in these
waves. They are a common cause of broken limbs and back injuries,
take care!
Spilling
Waves - The crest of a spilling wave tumbles down the
face. If the sandbank
where it breaks is shallow, the spilling crest will form a
'tube'. These are the best
waves for body surfing.
Surging
Waves - These never break, because the water beneath them
is deep, but
they can knock people off their feet and drag them back out.
Rip
Currents
A rip is a strong current running out to sea. Rips are the
cause of most rescues performed at
beaches. A rip usually occurs when a channel forms between
the shore and a sandbar, and large waves have built up water
which then returns to sea, causing a drag effect. The larger
the surf, the stronger the rip. Rips are dangerous as they
can carry a weak or tired swimmer out into deep water.
What do they look like?
The following features will alert you to the presence
of a rip:
Darker color, indicating deeper water murky brown water caused
by sand stirred up off the bottom smoother surface with much
smaller waves, alongside white water (broken waves) waves
breaking further out to sea on both sides of the rip debris
floating out to sea a rippled look, when the water around
is generally calm.
What do I do if I get caught in a rip?
If you are caught in a rip:
Don't Panic - stay calm. If you are a strong swimmer, swim
at a 45 degree angle across the rip and in the same direction
as the current until you reach the breaking wave zone, then
return to shore If you are a weak or tired swimmer, float
with the current, don't fight it. Swim parallel to the shore
for about 30 - 40m until you reach the breaking wave zone,
then swim back to shore or signal for help. Remember to stay
calm and conserve your energy.
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